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和菓子

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楼主
发表于 8-23-2017 12:47:20 | 只看该作者 回帖奖励 |倒序浏览 |阅读模式
本帖最后由 choi 于 8-24-2017 15:58 编辑

Ligaya Mishan, This Elusive Moment; Bittersweet pleasures for stressful times. T magazine (a fashion magazine of NY Times), Aug 20, 2017.
https://www.nytimes.com/2017/08/ ... s-cats-wagashi.html

Note:
(a) "River of heaven. Young grass waiting under snow. Wind in the distance.  Each phrase is the name of a piece of wagashi 和菓子 [see (b) for definition of 菓子], Japanese sweets made to accompany the traditional tea ceremony. If they sound like lines from a haiku 俳句, that's deliberate. The sweets * * * share the same mission as haiku * * * This is hardly the brief of most Western sweets, which tend to prioritize indulgence and seduction. Picture a drowsy odalisque, licking her fingers after ransacking a box of bonbons."

You may use images.google.com to look for 和菓子: 天の川 (羊羹) and 待雪草. (I try but fail to find kanji or images for "wind in the distance.")
(i) amanogawa 天の川

In Japan, 天の川 and 天の河 share the same pronunciation (shown above). Together, both, as well as 銀河 (pronunciation: "ginga," where "ka" is Chinese pronunciation of 河), means galaxy.
(ii) matsu-yuki-sō 待雪草 まつゆきそう
(A) スノードロップ (katakana for "snowdrop) has a Japanese name 和名: 待雪草.
(B) A snowdrop is
Galanthus
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galanthus
(genus name:  Greek gála milk, ánthos flower)

The accent of Galanthus is in the second syllable.
(iii) brief (n):
"1a :  an official letter or mandate; especially, Roman Catholicism :  a papal letter less formal than a bull
b :  a specific instruction or responsibility  <his brief was to strengthen the army>"
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/brief
(iv) odalisque (n; etymology)
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/odalisque
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沙发
 楼主| 发表于 8-23-2017 12:48:21 | 只看该作者
(b) Japanese-English dictionary:
* kashi 菓子 【かし】 (n): "pastry; confectionery"
* matsu 待つ 【まつ】 (v): "to wait"
* shigure 時雨 【しぐれ(P); じう】 (n): "(1) rain shower in late autumn (fall) or early winter; (2) ([when pronounced in Chinese pronunciations for both kanji: 'ji-u'] じう only) seasonable rain"
* ama-i 甘い 【あまい】 (adj): "(1) sweet-tasting, sweet  <彼女は彼の甘い言葉にだまされた。She was beguiled by his sweet words> * * * (4) (See 甘く見る) naive; overly optimistic; soft on; generous; indulgent; easy-going; lenient  <メアリーにはつい甘くなってしまう。 I have always had a soft spot in my heart for Mary>"
* tsubaki つばき 《椿(P); 山茶》 (n): "common camellia"
* kitchō 吉兆 【きっちょう】 (n): "lucky omen; good omen"

(c) "Wagashi makers work with just a few, relative humble ingredients * * * kanten (agar-agar) or kudzu powder, for jelly"
(i) The English noun 'kudzi" is derived from Japanese "kuzu 葛."  "Kuzuko 葛粉 is a starch powder made from the root of the kudzu plant." en.wikipedia.org
(ii) "冷えると固まる性質を利用して、和菓子や洋菓子の生地 [ingredient] や料理のとろみ [viscosity] つけの材料などの用途に用いられる":  ja.wikipedia.org for 葛粉 (making use of its property to firm up/harden/solidify when in cold temperature)

(d) two examples of wagashi: "four little fissures run down the cake's sides, resembling streaks from raindrops and giving the wagashi part of its name, shigure [defined in (b)]  (drizzling rain). Humble mame daifuku 豆大福 [mame is Japanese pronunciation for 豆], a white ball of mochi with a surface faintly troubled by shadows, like the seas of the moon, has the comforting heft and smoothness of a river stone. Hidden inside is red bean paste"
(i) 京都の美味しい 黄味時雨(きみしぐれ) 時雨羹(しぐれかん) のお菓子.  時雨(しぐれ)とは?
http://kyoto-wagasi.com/vocabulary/sigure.html
(時雨(しぐれ)とは?  黄身・黄味時雨(きみしぐれ)とは?)
(ii) 黄身時雨 has filling 餡 with egg yolk.
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板凳
 楼主| 发表于 8-23-2017 12:49:42 | 只看该作者
本帖最后由 choi 于 8-23-2017 12:50 编辑

(e) "Sugar arrived in Japan from China in the eighth century, and for nearly a millennium it was treated like a controlled substance * * * In the ninth century, the Emperor Ninmyō 仁明天皇 [808-850]  is said to have offered rice cakes to the gods to celebrate finding a white tortoise, which was a sign of good luck. This ceremonial offering eventually evolved into an Edo-era ritual during which the shogun bestowed confections on his daimyo 大名 (feudal lords) as they swore fealty. The young aristocrats in 'The Tale of Genji 源氏物語' [1008 AD] savored tsubaki mochi [tsubaki mochi 椿餅 (check the Web to see what it looks like); tsubaki is defined in (b)], rice cakes pressed between camellia leaves, as they gazed at blossoming cherry trees"
(i) How Sugar is Made - the History. Undated
www.sucrose.com/lhist.html
("It is thought that cane sugar was first used by man in Polynesia from where it spread to India. In 510 BC the Emperor Darius of what was then Persia invaded India where he found 'the reed which gives honey without bees.' * * * When they [Arabs] invaded Persia in 642 AD [note: Muhammad (c 570 – 632) ] they found sugar cane being grown and learnt how sugar was made. As their expansion continued they established sugar production in other lands that they conquered including North Africa and Spain. Sugar was only discovered by western Europeans as a result of the Crusades in the 11th Century AD")
(A) It can not be "Polynesians," because aborigines from Taiwan populated Polynesia a thousand years ago.
(B) This post does not mention China.
(ii) history of sugar
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_sugar
(People of people of New Guinea domesticated sugarcane, 8,000 BC. Indians crystallized sugar. 唐太宗 wanted Indians to teach Chinese how to)

(f) "And though wagashi are sweet, sometimes intensely so, sweetness is not their endgame. It's worth noting that the Japanese word for sweet, amai, suggests naïveté when applied to a person, whereas shibui 渋い [there is no good English definition for this kanji, because Westerners do not have this concept that Chinese have], bitter, confers old-school cool. When eaten as part of the tea ceremony, the sugar in wagashi both tempers and is subsumed by the bitterness of the tea. The Tokyo confectioner Chikara MIZUKAMI 水上 力 [1948- ], whose four decades of devotion to his craft are the subject of the book 'Ikkoan 一幸庵' (named after his shop), has compared this sacrifice of sweetness to a samurai laying down his life for a lord. The Japanese god of confectioners is in fact Tajimamori 多遅麻毛理 [legendary, did not exist], a first-century vassal [not a warrior] who, according to legend, was sent in search of a mystical fruit to revive the ailing emperor. He returned with heavily laden branches, but too late, and wept at the emperor's grave until he too died, of grief. The last character in the fruit's name 非時香菓 is now part of the word wagashi."
(i) The "amai" is defined in (b).
(ii) the book (in Japanese):
水上 力, Ikkoan 一幸庵; 72の季節のかたち. 青幻舎, 2016 (かたち’s kanji is 形).
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4#
 楼主| 发表于 8-23-2017 12:54:50 | 只看该作者
(g) "But of all the qualities that define wagashi, the most poignant might be ephemerality. The highest form of wagashi is jounamagashi: elaborate sweets doomed by their moisture content to the briefest of lives. They cannot be treasured, but must be eaten at once."
(i) Besides "jounamagashi," the alternate Romanization for 上生菓子 is "jōnamagashi."
(ii) 上生菓子 means 特に上等の生菓子 the best/ highest-grade 生菓子.
(iii)
(A) 和菓子
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/和菓子
(section 2 種類, section 2.1 生菓子と干菓子: "菓子には様々な分類方法があるが、日本では保存性の観点から * * * 水分を30%以上含むものが生菓子、10%以下のものが干菓子で、10%から30%のものが半生菓子におおよそ分類される * * * 「生」は加熱していないという意味ではなく、焼き菓子でも水分量の多いものは生菓子になる")

My translation: There are various ways to classify Japanese pastry. From the point of ability to keep * * * >30% moisture is 生菓子, below 10% 干菓子 and in between 半生菓子. * * *  生 does not mean raw, uncooked. Pastry, even cooked/ baked, is 生菓子 if it contains high moisture.
(B) The ja,wikipedia,org has a page for 生菓子, which gives examples of 生菓子: "餅菓子、饅頭まんじゆう、羊羹など."
(C) In Japan: 饅頭
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/饅頭
(photo)

(h) In the legends of photos in this articles.
(i) Yume Confections in Portland, Oregon: The "yume" is Japanese pronunciation for 夢.
(ii) Mochi Rin in New York City

About. Mochi Rin, undated
http://www.rin-nyc.com/about/
("凛  Rin is a Japanese word that suggests the crispness or the elegant tension in one's state or appearance. It's a very fitting word for describing the fresh gracefulness of traditional Japanese cuisine and confectionery")

Jin Breen's online Japanese-English dictionary has this to say:
* rin 凛; 凜 【りん】 (adj-t,adv-to) (1): "cold; frigid; bracing; (2) dignified"
* ifūrinrin  威風凛々; 威風凛凛 【いふうりんりん】 (adj): "(arch[aic]) awe-inspiring; majestic; commanding; stately; with an imposing air"
(iii) Minamoto Kitchoan in NYC: kitchō is defined in (b).
(iv) The nerikiri 練り切り is a kind of 和菓子. The first part 練り means kneading. One kneads white bean paste, add coloring, and then sculpt the pastry. Check images.google.com.
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