NYT Food Critic Pete Wells' 2017 Best Picks

choi

Pete Wells, Celebrating the Standouts, and Searching for Meaning; With cuisines and chefs, from Uruguay to South Korea, our critic's favorites run the gamut. New York Times, Dec 13, 2017 (in the weekly Food section; under the heading "The Best of 2017 restaurants" 00 basically the best picks of the restaurants he reviewed in 2017).
https://www.nytimes.com/interact ... ular-food-news.html

Quote:

"What about No 2 on my list, Guan Fu Sichuan, the first Chinese restaurant in decades to be given three stars by The New York Times — as far as I can tell, the last was Say Eng Look, reviewed by Mimi Sheraton in 1982 — is that an indication that China's economic strength is going to work out to the advantage of eaters in New York?

"2 Guan Fu Sichuan 官府川菜 ★★★ New York hardly suffers from a scarcity of good mapo tofu and Chongqing chicken 重庆口水鸡 [not Chongqing spicy chicken 重庆辣子鸡 or Chongqing Chicken Pot (TongZhou XinHuaLianJiaYuan), Beijing Picture: 重庆鸡公煲]. But the depth, complexity and finesse of the cooking at Guan Fu stand out. It’s probably the most cheffy Sichuan place in town, although that claim would be easier to support if Guan Fu's owners didn't refuse to name the chef in question. Whoever is in charge has some skills. The boiled fish with pickled vegetables, the 'homemade' [私房菜?] roasted fish

"9 Little Tong Noodle Shop 小唐 ★★ This exciting evocation of Yunnanese cuisine is the project of a chef born in a different Chinese provi