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鋤焼 in Japan = 火锅

发表于 5-13-2018 12:31:49 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Eleanore Park. Cook, Memory; For this writer, no dish comforts quite like sukiyaki, the Japanese one-pot feast. Wall Street Journal, May 12, 2018.
https://www.wsj.com/articles/com ... together-1525883404

My comment:
(a) Her own website says "Eleanore Park is a [Brooklyn,] New York-based food writer."  Specifically she is "Assistant Editor, Off Duty Section at The Wall Street Journal," according to her twitter account.

(b) "This Japanese dish of beef and vegetables, tucked into their pot in a tidy pinwheel, was a fixture of my childhood. We ate it a few times a month, not necessarily to mark a special occasion * * * My mother, who is Korean, didn’t grow up with this dish; she had it for the first time in Paris, traveling with her parents as a young woman. * * * Our home-cooked sukiyaki always included a parade of vibrant greens, squidgy mushrooms"

pinwheel (toy)

refers to the beef arranged in a pinwheel pattern in a dish. View the photo in the article which, at the left margin displays beef.
(c) "At my mother's Japanese restaurant, Mikado, in Los Altos, an entire section of the menu was focused on sukiyaki."

Los Altos, California

is on the southeastern border of Palo Alto, Calif.
(c) "This food falls into the category known as nabemono or nabe, traditionally made in Japanese earthenware called donabe, often on a portable burner at the table. In 'Japan: The Cookbook,' [publisher and publication date: Phaidon Press (April 6, 2018)] Nancy Singleton Hachisu [who has lived with her Japanese farmer husband and three sons since 1989 in rural Japan; Hachisu is Japanese surname] devotes a chapter to nabemono, including recipes for sukiyaki. * * * When I contacted Ms Hachisu, she told me she particularly appreciates the little bowls of whisked raw egg, typically provided with no sauce or seasoning. 'The luscious egg encases each bite with its own sweet gentleness,' she wrote in an email."

Japanese-English dictionary:
* mikado 帝 【みかど】 (n): "emperor (of Japan)"  
   ^ Jim Breen's online Japanese dictionary says mikado (originally written in kanji as 御門, where mi and kado are respective Japanese pronunciations for 御 and 門) is an honorific for "(the gates of an) imperial residence."
   ^ ja.wikipedia.org: "原意は御所の門の意味で、直接名指すことを避けた婉曲表現。"
* sukiyaki 鋤焼き; 鋤焼 【すきやき】 (n): "thin slices of beef, cooked with various vegetables in a table-top cast-iron pan"
   ^ 鋤焼 is relatively recent Japanese food, after Japanese started eating beef toward the end of 徳川幕府 (until then Japanese had been Buddhists, and hence vegans for more than a millenium)  Why 鋤 (whose Japanese pronunciation is "suki")?  料理早指南 (published in 1801) said that because it was cooked in, and eaten from, a shovel/spade 鋤 (rather than 鍋).
* nabemono 鍋物 【なべもの】 (n): "stew; food cooked in a pot"  (Even in Japan, nabemono 鍋物 is abbreviated as 鍋 (per ja.wikipedia.org), which actually the pot. )
   ^ The nabemono 鍋物 is the same as sukiyaki 鋤焼. See nabemono
      ("The dish is frequently cooked at the table, and the diners can pick the cooked ingredients they want from the pot")
   ^ The ja.wikipedia.org says the same about nabemono.
* donabe 土鍋 【どなべ】 (n) "earthenware pot"
* kamado かまど 《竃; 竈(oK)》 (n):  "cooking stove"

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 楼主| 发表于 5-13-2018 12:32:31 | 显示全部楼层
(d) "At the end of the meal, leftover broth—known as shime 締め, loosely translating to 'finish'—provides an opportunity to continue indulging. Naoko Takei Moore, owner of Toiro, a donabe store in Los Angeles, and author of 'Donabe: Classic and Modern Japanese Clay Pot Cooking,' [co-author Kyle Connaughton; Ten Speed Press, 2015] suggested simmering noodles in it for an additional course. 'After you eat all the ingredients, save whatever leftover broth and cook some type of flat udon,' she said."
(i) In Japanese the noun shime has a corresponding transitive verb shimeru (to close window or store at the end of the day). This is a unique use of 締 not found in China.
(ii) Naoko Takei Moore. Apparently Naoko TAKEI (surname represented by 竹井/武井 or 竹居/武居) is her maiden name, and she married a guy surnamed Moore.
(iii) One may argue that in 2008 she formed the company Toiro Kitchen to import pots. Then in 2015 she opened a restaurant which serves sukiyaki as well as cook meals in pots (which Cantonese call 煲; I go to its website to see).
(A) About Me. Naoko Takei Moore, undated
("In 2008, I established a company called, toiro kitchen, an online donabe shop and a US representative of Nagatani-en")
(B) The full name of her restaurant is Toiro Kitchen  (since 2015; see next), which is a company with her as CEO.
(iv) About Toiro. Toiro Kitchen and Supply, undated
(I am "a native of Tokyo * * * When I first tasted the rice made by this double-lid donabe rice cooker, Kamado-san from Iga, Japan back in 2007 [it is unclear whether it was in Japan or US], I was blown away! It was no doubt the best quality rice I had ever tasted and didn't even need any condiments because it was just so delicious as itself. The rice made by Kamado-san was so shiny and fluffy, and it was so easy to prepare. It tasted better than any rice cooked with any kinds of rice cooking tools I had ever tried. So, I contacted Nagatani-en 長谷園 [pottery specialty: 伊賀焼; founded seven generations ago by a guy surnamed 長谷], our relationship was established immediately, and I started importing only a few pieces of Kamado-san at a time in 2008. * * * This [2015] book was the first English language book dedicated to the subject and the book received many accolades by media * * * In October 2017, my first brick-and-mortar shop, TOIRO, finally opened its door in West Hollywood, LA! * * * All our donabe and Iga-yaki products are handmade by Nagatani-en (established in 1832) in Iga [here refers to Iga Province, which was abolished in early days of Meiji Restoration], Japan. * * * TOIRO is the official US representative of Nagatani-en")
(A) Kamado-san. Toiro (kitchen and supply), undated.

For definition of kamado, see (c).
(B) Iga, Mie 三重県 伊賀市
(The city "corresponds to a portion of ancient Iga Province" 伊賀国)
(v) But what does "toiro" mean in Japanese?  Her Toiro restaurant has only English for its name.
(A) There is a restairant (named といろ on the sign outside: no kanji or English) serving Japanese meals 割烹, whose street address is 東京都目黒区上目黒2-16-5.

I do not know when this one was founded --whether earlier or later than 2008.
(B) Toiro is from a Japanese phrase 十人十色 (pronunciation: jū-nin to-iro; literally 10 persons, 10 colors), which means that everyone has his tastes.

(e) Until this article, I had an inkling that sukiyaki is similar to 火锅. After reading this (full of details of sukiyaki), I know they are the same, except (d): Taiwanese were relatively poor, who are 火锅 to consume meat; naturally we would not have had noodle.
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